After a nail biting lead up in the height of the Omicron surge, we (unbelievably) made it to Klosters for Christmas. Nestled in the Swiss Alps, Klosters is a little ski town filled with charm and character. It’s best known as the chosen destination for skiing by the Royals but don’t let that fool you - the vibe is wholly Swiss without a whiff of pretentiousness.
We flew into Zurich and were met by a lovely driver from Gotschnataxi . The trip took just under two hours. You can also take the train which is cost effective and drops you conveniently at Klosters Platz but there are two stops. Another option is to hire/rent a car. The drive is very smooth and the roads are amazingly well maintained in Switzerland. With two small children at Christmas time, we weren’t exactly travelling light so we opted for the driver option.
We stayed at the Chalet by Hotel Piz Buin which is a set of apartments with access to the amenities (playroom, gym, pool, spa and sauna) at the hotel located 300 meters away over the bridge. We got a two bedroom apartment which was spacious and comfortable. You don’t get any daily cleaning in the apartment but they will happily give you new towels and there’s a laundry room on site - handy with two messy children! It was also great for making breakfast and dinner. We had one dinner out on Christmas Day at the hotel and it was delicious. I spent a couple afternoons by the pool and the kids loved the playroom there. Included in your booking is a weeklong bus pass and train pass to Davos.
We put the kids in ski school via the Snowli Club. They skied for two hours with instructors and then went to the Club House for lunch and indoor/outdoor play. Drop off and pick up was a breeze because everything was so close. They loved their time there and we loved that we were able to ski or relax by ourselves. It felt like a real holiday! It’s important to note that if you’re children are good skiers, they will need to do their lessons on The Madrisa peak which you can get to by bus. Annoyingly, if you want after care in this case, you have to collect them at 12:00 PM and shuttle them back over to the Snowli Club. Alternatively they can do a full day of ski school on The Madrisa including lunch but our kids just weren‘t there yet in terms of spending that much time on the mountain. Maybe next year!
As for my husband and I, we skied two different peaks over the course of five days. Two days on Parsenn and two days on Jakobshorn. There are five peaks that make up the Davos/Klosters terrain.
There’s plenty of off piste but since having children, we prefer to stick to the "making our way to lunch" style of skiing. Luckily the weather did not disappoint and we were able to have most of our lunches outside in the sunshine on top of the world.
Below is a comprehensive list of restaurant/ski hut options. Make sure you check that there is sun for when you want to have lunch - if it's earlier in the season it's best to stay at the top vs half way down.
Parsenn (the Gotschagrat one with lots lots more behind it – good hill, plus you’ve got the mega Nostalgie #21 red run which goes on for miles and miles running all the way back into Klosters if you take the right route):
BergRestaurant Totalp – On Totalp #15 run (flagged as restaurant 8 on the map below), right hand side before the big pylons, great for beers, some JagerTee, and views and a game of hammerslagen. Lunch is good too.
Munggahutte (just before the bottom, on the right of the Totalp #15 run, flagged as restaurant 17 on the map below) but not at the bottom itself (not #5) – good for quick lunch options but mainly sunny day beers with a great outdoor area, busy but worth it! Just grab a chair / space kind of place.
Iglu Dorf – at the top of Totalp #15, flagged as restaurant #14 on the map, a quirky igloo place for drinks
Berghutte Hohenweg – Nice restaurant, often busy so may be worth dropping in and booking.
Kulm Hotel – Wolfgang, really nice restaurant with a good terrace. Part of a hotel but good. Take the train back directly to Klosters from there (50 m away from the restaurant)
Serneuser Schwendi 21 on Run #21 (restaurant #12) is a good place but a little bigger, perhaps a late lunch as the run down to Klosters thereon basically means you are back in the town
Skihütte Gruobenalp – a big more modern but good place.
Umbrella Bar (Grastochni) is a good place to end the #21, whilst the Kaffee Klastch is generally not too bad but a bit more of a “coffee shop vibe”
Madrisa (take the bus there to klosters Dorf or the train, not far at all, good contained hill including some nice unpisted stuff)
Schlappin Berghaus Erika – perhaps worth calling and booking, perhaps the nicest one around for me. Has a black run through it but its only black afterwards due to the width so don’t overdo it but equally don’t underdo it (not official advice).
Jakobshorn (Take the train to Davos, left hand side of the railway in the direction of travel, a really good hill! Jump on the regular 15- 20 min train back afterwards, 2 mins walk from the apres at the bottom) I love the vibe on the top of this peak but prefer the Après in Klosters town.
Top recommendation is: Chalet Gueggel < Second best for me after Schlappin. Amazing interior in the “old bit” – book ideally.
Jatzhutte – more modern than Gueggel but really good. Gets busy too so perhaps good to book.
At the bottom of ski slope near station there are a number of good little bars for après-ski
The kids club wasn’t open on the weekends so we did a family sledding excursion which was perfect as the kids got to take the big gondola up to the half way point on Parsenn and it took a good hour to sled down on the special sledding course.
We also took the kids on the train to Davos and up the gondola for hot chocolate and dessert pizza at Chalet Guegl - you can reach it without skis. They loved every second - we all did.
Have you been to Klosters? Did I miss anything? Please send me any further suggestions.